August 1891-July 1892
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Litharge 1 part
Hog’s lard 2 ”
Lake Bourget —— 15 fr.
St. Genix 18
The Monk 18
Hotel Haute du Rhone 22
Hotel at Lyon
To Mr. Hall, Oct 4, Lausanne:
Please tell me the terms of our contract with the Shermans, & exactly what we have made or lost. Was the $3,500 a loan, & has it been repaid?
Dr. Chas. Waldstein
King’s College Cambridge (permanent address)
Berlin doctors for Livy (as per Dr W’s judgt)
Gerhard and Leyden, Berlin.
Prof. Dr J (W Bendlerstr 17. III. 1-2.
Joachim see
Geo. Von Bunsen Berlin W 62.
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“By the humping jumping J---s What the h--l is that to you?”
Aug 1 & 2. Aug. 31 & Sept. 1. At Nürnberg the cCity of Exquisite Glimpses.
See pocket broadside for very valuable account of Martin Behaim & the first Germand railroad.
Make fac-simile death-notice (from pocket) & add American French & English.
Knew he was educated
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because his face was a wagon wheel broken mirror of sword-scars.
Hell or Heidelberg? We will get out at Whichever you come to first.
Sept. 2. Came to Heidelberg.—47 car-changes in 7 hours—hot day, too, & crowded cars.
Went up to Königstuhl & recognized old “gelogen”—the two girls seemed to recognize
me (gave me hopes) but didn’t; 2 redheaded children I attributed to the younger (fat)
one. I was
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a skittish young thing of 42 in those days.
We have our old room now, No 40.
Albert is gone—he was a brute & hammered the servants.
We carried away Birshe (poter) & he got drunk first night.
Europe has lived a life of hypocrisy for ages; it is so ingrained in flesh & blood that sincere speech is impossible to these people when speaking of hereditary grandees. power. God Save the King is uttered millions of times a day in Europe, & issues nearly always from just the mouth, neither higher nor lower.
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Even Luther strongly reprobated rebellion against constituted (no matter how) authority.
The first gospel of all monarchies should be Rebellion; the second shd be Rebellion; & the third & all gospels & the only gospel [permitted to be preached] in any monarchy shd be Rebellion against [the] Church & State.
What is the difference between compliment & flattery? One is sincere praise and the other insincere praise. That is to say, the very same words [in one case] can serve in both cases without ̭thḙ change of a syllable.
On Sept. 1 all the flags in Nürnberg were flying—the Germans persist in considering Sedan a German victory instead of the most priceless victory that ever France gained in the world.
Sept. 4. Heidelberg. Drove in a storm over Philosophen Weg.
Sept. 4. French Republic came of age.
Sept. 5. Left for Lucerne 8.50 am.
The paper for Paris journals costs 2 cents a ton.
There is no such thing as merit.
Switzerland.—$15 to carry 4 half-grown trunks 2 hours.
This is not robbery, but training in this would make robbery less repulsive to the beginner.
Schweizerhof asks you to pay no fees. Fees are the hell of European travel.
Swiss soldiers passing by in neat new uniforms—they have a reputation from way back!
Room 31.
Nüremberg dog. Reward—30 marks for his entrails & ½ mark additional for his owner’s. Got the dog’s.
Heidelburg, room 40.
Schweitzerhof—28.
Huckleberry Castle & town
Wed. Sep. 9. Left Lucerne by boat, 9.45 a.m. Left Alpnach in two carriages at 10.45. Lunched at the Lion d’Or, at 1 p.m.; passed through Brienz mid-afternoon; glimpsed [the] a small white peak of the Jungfrau at 6.10; at 6.30 the vast pile was in full view & from then till 7.10 it was richly tinted with pink, the other mountains very dark, nearly black. Meantime, reached Victoria Hotel, Interlaken 6.30.
The idiotic Crusades were gotten up to “rescue” a valueless tomb from the Saracens; it seems to me that a crusade to make a bonfire of the Russian throne & fry the Czar in it wd [have] be some sense.
“Got a pulse like a jackass!
“Stop your praying & snuffling & get this woman a beefsteak & a washtub. She’s a damned humbug, there’s nothing the matter with her.”—Dr. McDowell.
Frederick the Great Scoundrel.
Why didn’t Carlyle do Chas. the Bold—a hero after his own heart.
3 hours afoot, 2½ zu Pferd, from the Hotel de l’Ours to the Gletcherfoots 300 yards. (Grindelwald). Shrines all the way—what you want is cussing places.
Re-name them.
Want milk, but dasn’t have it—would be too conspicuous not to drink wine. The wine increases my rheumatism, too.
48 fr for food for 6 persons at the Bear Tavern, Grindelwald. A swindle.
Sign—Go slow—through the village on account of the children.
Deformed face on a girl whose father pathetically ignores it in speech and every way. Finlay.
A ¶ [reverse paragraph symbol] on hotel fees.
Instand & sandbox at Marienbad.
Except the German Corps-student’s cap, there is nothing quite so tasteless as the French military uniform. It is claimed that you don’t need a deep cap to cover a shallow skull.
3 communicating rooms—5, 6, 7,—40 fr pr day, service & lights included.
Accept or decline & what day we come—per portier. 6 p.m.
Arrived at Ouchy Thursday, Sept. 17—noon.
To prevent snoring—Stand on your head & keep your mouth shut.
Henry James’s Summer Trip through Provence.
Sept. 19 Saturday—depart from Gd Hotel Beau Rivage at 2 pm for Castle Chatillon on Lac Bourget for boat-trip down Rhone.
I wanted to take the Swiss guidebook because the print was cleaner & the binding rather better, but Harris said a man were an ass to prefer a Swiss guidebook in France. Disagreement No. 1.
3 idiots took a boat just as I was walking to the Beau Rivage & soon were being swept down toward the bridge, they pawing the water innocently with their ignorant oars. The owner of the boats watched a while, then sent a boat after them & saved them—so the world is better off by 2 fools.
27 cigars for a cent. It is the quality which has rotted your heart, not the number—which is not excess.
Customhousing is a farce. Here at Bellegard (7.30 pm) 200 people assembled & the motions of examination are gone through with. Not a franc is collected.
Sepet. Jeanne d’Arc gr. in-8° M. 20 fr.
Jean (rowing) doing part of the boy’s work for him—that is to say, it was less labor for the boy when Jean helped, although no distance has been marked off! If he had been lifting a weight, she could have been a help.
Chatto send me—
Joan of Arc books.
Sieur de Joinville’s Louis IX.
Text. It is permitted to the superficial observer in a foreign land to generalize broad principles from isolated instances. M.T.
Dupré-Latour, proprietor of the Beautiful House, Valence.
This is the best one
dim & blue—on the
left bank across the
plain in the distance
[Twain sketches on the side of this verse—it is jagged lines almost resembling a mountain]
Abreast Castle Beauchastel.
Monday 28, Avignon;
Tuesday 29, Arles
Tuesday 30“
Wedns Oct. 1 Nimes
Thurs “ 2 “ & Arles
Friday “ 3 Arles & Avignon.
Sat. – 4 Go to Ouchy
Sunday 5 Ouchy
Monday 6.to Basle
Tuesday 7 “ Berlin.
Get [any] photograph of any historical monument of France at 17 rue St. Père, Paris.
Hotel du Nord & (has the dead under it.)
Hotel “
Among the principal ruins at Arles are the ̭Hotels du Nord &̭ Circus, the Theatre & St. Trophemus; but
*
very old ruins (ornamented stove) often look[ed] like melted or wax or tallow.
*[Mark Twain left a space here, apparently intending to fill it in later]
Difference between a first-class hotel & any other is that the others keep empty match boxes.
Diarrhoea—water melon—expect.
Avignon Oct. 3—leaving, 11 am. Papal palace. This old factory—for that is what it looks like with its gray walls (that have a plastered look ) & its [perfectly] straight lines & sharp corners & four or 5 chimney-like projections [and utter] absence of ornament, & utter & unapproachable ugliness—
[We get an idea that a] palace—why that is a word which suggests & promises elegance, ornament, beauty, costly decoration, rich furniture not a stable, a factory.
Beaucaire is beautiful from here!—The sun strikes it right—& now the color of the village is dainty, lovely & the castle—
What you want on those towns first of all is distance—great distance—then the light must strike just right.
But near at hand they are horribly ugly.
The river for miles is a raging plain of tossing white caps! The Mistral is just howling!
The women—
Admiral Husson.
Wood fire in Hotel d’Europe, & chicken & rainstorm.
Villeneuve (iron Mask 8 days)
Strassburg, Oct. 6.—Arles is very well, perhaps; but this is the place for pretty girls, apparently.
Higginson, visiting Emily Dickinson at her father’s house in Amherst, 1870:
“It was at her father’s house, one of those large, square, brick mansions so familiar in our older New England towns, surrounded by trees & blossoming-shrubs without, & within exquisitely neat, cool, spacious, & fragrant with flowers.”
There—if there is any region on the continent of Europe where such homes [are common] exist, I have not found it.
So many little conveniences not to be had here: Fountain pens, good type-writing machines, rubber shoes.
He is the hardest devil on clothes! Damn his bones he would wear out a suit of armor in 3 months!
Saturday, mid-afternoon, 7th. Meter marks 10,100.
10100
[in each column there is a circular meter with the hands pointing to 12, 1, 1, 12 o’clock, respectively]
1000 100 101
Papier besonders.
Nachfragestellenanknote.
Ersuche Max Horwitz die Seile mir lehren.
An dem Biblioteck Besuche abstatten.
Stückholzer.
[Sat. 15th] Sunday a.m. Nov. 16, meter scores 46 metres for the week—6½ m. per day. About 200 me. per month. About $7.50 per month.
His intercourse had been confined to a single class—the brainicraftsman—he had no experience of the handicraftsman & [therefore] it follows that he had no sympathy with his desire & complaints.
As long as time shall last, history will spit in England’s face for her treachery to Napoleon’s trust in her. Some have looked around for an excuse, & found it in England’s fright. Excuses must have been scarce when that one was chosen.
Her Excellency
Lt. Generalin von ̭[Fersen]̭ Versen
36 Manerstrasse.
*No foreigner can read it, unless [possibly] maybe the Creator, but certainly no other.
*[written in Mr. Paine’s hand: “German,” indicating the language referred to.]
Dr. Heinrich Nelson
Klepstockstr 11II 8 pm.
Niggers & white folks sleeping together—six in a bed. Pumpernickel.
Blaine a candidate. Butterfly proposing to try a pleasure excursion in hell.
365 Thanks a year. Pumpernickel—brings tears—Am. flag ̭in morning.̭
[Glad to see so many faces—they call up our home over the sea—when you are a stranger in a strange land & the face of a countryman comes before you it summons land & country &] Not that G isn’t home to us—They treat us well. And we came originally from G—& we should be dumb without the G words in our lang. [Glad to meet all these doctors] the highest of all professions—the stilling of human pain, the saving of human life.
—When you lie low, how welcome is the face of the doctor, in that time of uncertainty when you can’t tell for sure just where you are going to.
And without a doubt Berlin is the place to come to finish your medical education. For certainly it is a luminous centre of intelligence—a place where the last possibilities of attainment in all the sciences are to be had for the seeking. Berlin is a wonderful city for that sort of opportunities. They teach everything here. I don’t believe there is anything in the whole earth that you can’t learn in Berlin except the German language. It is a desperate language. They think it is the language of concentration. They hitch a cattle-train of words together & vestibule it, & because there isn’t a break in it from one end to the other they think that is concentration & they call it so. An officer gave me this word the other day—got it out of a [scientific work.] naval handbook.
Marine-intendant-untersecretariats-applicant. Great SCOTT!
There are [38] 41 letters in that word. It merely concentrates the alphabet—with a shovel.
I wrote a chapter on this language 13 years ago & tried my level best to improve it & simplify it for these people—& this is the result. It hurts me to know that that chapter is not in any of their text books & they don’t use it in the University. If I could get an imperial decree it would help the reform along.
But the fact is, they ought to adopt our language. It is so simple & easy &c whereas, Sie wissen selbst dass die Deutchen Sprache—die echte Deutch, reinlich gesprochen—so erfüllt, so übergeshwemmt mit allerlei Schwierigkeiten ist, dass eben der liebe Hergott sie nicht verstehen kann.
But never mind about that. You are hear to learn you are here to perfect yourselves in your great calling. And that is the thing to do. A half-educated physician is not valuable. He thinks he can cure everything—cancer, stammering, idiotcy—there isn’t anything he won’t undertake—& there is just where he is so dangerous. If he knew more he would undertake less, & the undertaker would have a rest. Stammering—I’ll tell you an anecdote about that. Stammering isn’t curable with pills. It isn’t a physical disease, it’s a [moral] mental one—it comes of a person’s having more ideas than words—& so he has to spread out the words to [fill up the breaks] give good measure.
*Wouldn’t be as lonesome as a G. verb for anything in the world.
*[written in margin.]
The Holy Land. Between the rails in Unter den Linden. Nobody can drive there but the Kaiser.
“Come yo’se[l]ff Lawd, doan sen’ yo’ son, dis ain’ no time f’chillun.”
“Good mawnin’ Massa Jesus, how’d you leave yo’ pa?”
○Toul
Vaucouleurs [cou circled]
○Maxey [line drawn connecting Maxey to Burgundian]
[Bourbon]
Burgundian
○[Dreu] ○Domremy [line drawn encompassing Domremy and Armagnac on the left side]
Armagnac.
Neufchatel.[Neu circled]
timid—over-pious (made her laugh at.
Gave her bed to the man who afterward betrayed her in prison.
Fed all tramps.
Ordered the battles of the rival hamlets.
Only one Burgundian in Domremy. She would have liked to have him beheaded “if it would please God.”
Order from London:
3 P & P.
3 Yankees
3 Finns.
From Tauchnitz:
2 (German) P & P.
[Mourning Cards.]
Goethe Cyclus.
Tax Collector.
[Victoria Lyceum.]
[Scotch Whisky.]
[Get Don Juan.]
[Ask R R. to Charlottenberg.]
[See card-folk 40 Urd. L.]
[Carry Huck to Löwenfel]
Turkish Bath.
Call at Embassy.
Good jeweler.
Ask at the school about Goethe Cyclus.
Get 2 tickets for the Götz von Berlichingen tomorrow night.
Get the Goethe Cylcus.
Bingham, wish your Fritz to appoint for me to go & see that Junker.
Karl
Schoenebergerufer 46.
verdriesslichänliche
entspringenWahrnemungen
Berechtigung
BerathungWeltanschauung
Berathschlagung
geneigtgefahrliche Wolke
beklagtevermochte.
herrschenden
schien
Wirklichen
Verhälltnissen
gegenüber
absprechen
Meinung
Laune
Erfindung
Übertreibung
Ungrund
Beunruhigung
nachweisen
bestärkte
vermutlich
Dec. 12. 91.
[Now take that tiresome book home, & order German Price & Pauper]
[Get Uncle Remus.]
[Ask Prächtel to move us.]
University—Prof. S.
Turkish bath.
Stuckenberg—ask about Harz Mountains.
Ethnological Museum.
Visiting cards.
Smoking tobacco
Cigars.
Stamps.
I read what is marked X (in Dresden.)
XGerman Chapter––––––––––––––25
Music
Blue-jay.––––––––––––––––––––15
Music.
XInterviewer––––––––––––––––––20
Music
XDuel.–––––––––––––––––––––––10
[Christening] Ghost Story or Chris?[7] 3
If hall is very large, use Christening instead of Ghost Story.
X Oudinot’s liar–––– 10 )Not to be used if can be helped.
)
[Ghost story])
)
Whistling)
)
Christening)
German Chapter.[20]25
Blue Jay–––––––––––––––– [20]15
Tar Baby–––––––––––––––– 15
Interviewer–––––––––––––– 15A
Duel––––––––––––––––––– 15B
Art of Lying––––––––––––– 15
Ghost Story)
)
Christening)or
)
Whistling)
Incor Co. Mean Men
King Sollermun.
Oudinot’s liar, 10
You took advantage of our ignorance to charge us four prices. That was your turn. Mine is coming. I have no recourse against you except with printer’s ink, but dear sir I will see to it that you have [no lack of that] barrels of that.
Körnerstrasse, the Rag-picker’s Paradise.
We hate the critic, & think him brutally & maliciously unjust. But he could retort with overwhelming truth, “You will feel just as I do about your book if you will take it up & read it ten years hence.”
True, & yet that would prove nothing. To see all that is good in a book, a person has got to read it just in the right time of his life—a year earlier or a year later would make a [great] difference, ten years would make a really prodigious difference. I mean, with most books. There are great masterpieces to which the remark does not reply—perhaps.
Must read Thursday, Jan 13, ‘92 in Y M C A Hall, Berlin.
The man has no bowels. He is upholstered inside with gaspipe.
These people are so fond of the parenthesis in their speech that children inherit it in their bodies—look at those bow-legged children over there.
The “duchesses” (out of window) give you the effect of gargoyles.
Dukes? What—those troglodytes?
The bony one with the flaring angles & projections that looks like a pterodactyl.
The Mental Telegraph Disk.
Visit to Heaven
£ 1,000,000 Note.
The Man (crazy) whose wife been dead 13 years.
Cable’s New Haven Idiot’s Romance.
Living Apparition Story
French Meisterschafft?
Hard-up American takes class in Berlin to teach English by Sauveur system. Knows not a word of German himself. [Is privately] Says he speaks G as well as E, but has taken a pledge to never utter a word of it in his class. Has to be forever dodging encounters with his pupils on street, in church & everywhere (situation !)—pretty girl among pupils—beguiles him at last while he is bragging, to promise a G. speech somewhere—denouement.
Mistake for an expected lunatic.
The twin girls.
Translate the Engländer Monkey.
The glass-eyed Sweethearts.
The S. Af. Diamond Mine. Children with geographical names.
Or, of 2 adventures, one of them plays idiot.
Man who undertook to play deaf and dumb on a wager for 24 hours—first adventure occurs in a stage coach full of women.
12 people upset in a boat—the rescuers marry the rescued.
Skeleton Novelette.
Fill them up myself. This is to teach the art of storytelling.
1. As a girl would tell it.
2. As he maiden aunt
3. As the preacher &c
Bureau & desk &
Sue’s1.39
Easternmost room. Place a bed or [bureau] wardrobe against the western doors. Put in this room a secretary, wardrobe, bureau, &c—&
Will there be room for a sofa?
2.
Next Room West’ard.
Susie’s. Place a piece of furniture against the east doors. Put a secretary wardrobe, bureau &c, in.
3
Put in every bedroom a secretary, wardrobe & bureau.
Also some extra blankets.
Put the soft bed in the double room that we occupied.
The diener will board out.
We come tomorrow, Dec. 31.
The family arrived in their quarters at the Hotel Royal 1.30 p.m. Dec. 31.
Left Körnerstr. 7 in the hands of the servants to clean it & put it in order.
Wrote Mr. Mosse that I wanted Prächtel to come & take possession of the furniture & see that everything was in proper condition; that some trifles of crockery were broken, also two windows which I would make good; but that Mr. P. must not rent the Wohnung to any one not approved by Rittmeister Killisch.
Sent the street-door key to Herr Killisch by the Portier Fritz & kept the upstairs keys.
Das
Hinauslehnen
des Körpers aus dem Fenster ist wegen der damit verbundenen Lebensgefahr strengstens
Untersagt.
Moved from Körnerstrasse 7 to Hotel Royal, Unter den Linden, 31st Dec. 91—six chambers & one dining room & one parlor.
Left the family there, & on the 4th Jan. ‘92, Livy & I went down to Ilsenburg in the Hartz Mountains—ostensibly four but really seven hours from Berlin.
Stayed 8 days in the house of Pastor Othmann. He & his wife lovely people. The stoves in our parlor & bedroom not satisfactory. I caught a heavy cough.
The entire society of the village consisted of the old Fürstin von Reuss, her daughter the Princess, & the Pastor & his wife—four people. We made it 6.
The doctor & his wife were not in society; he was a baker’s son & climbed to his doctorship by native gifts & hard work.
The second evening the Fürst von Stolberg-Wernigerode & his son came over on an annual visit to his sister the old Fürstin. He is a very handsome man, & the proudest [pr] unroyal prince in Germany & the richest. He brought several carriage-loads of young princesses with him. Our [crowd] party of 6 (which included the doctor & his wife) were the only people there below the rank of prince. Livy & I shook hands with the Fürst & passed on, & I missed seeing the awful thing that followed: the doctor’s wife put out her hand & the Fürst let on that he didn’t see it. Poor thing, instead of taking warning, she raised her hand higher, imagining he hadn’t seen it. He ignored it. It was tragic. She had a cry that night.
We came away at midnight, after a good super & a pleasant & sociable time. I made the usual number of blunders in matters of etiquette.
The night before we came away the old Fürstin & the Princess came over to supper & spent the evening. They are lovely people & good English scholars. The Fürstin is a poet, too. I spun yarns & she translated them to the company.
Came up to Berlin Jan 12 to lecture on the 13th, intending to go back to Ilsenburg & stay 2 months.
Went to our cousin’s (Frau Generalin von Versen) ball, after the lecture; we all came home at 2 am., & I have been in bed ever since—three weeks—with congestion of lungs & influenza.
When I had been in bed 11 days, Frau von Versen came Jan. 24, [excited & glad] & brought a note inviting me on the part of the Emperor to come to the palace at 11.30 a.m. & witness the consecration of some flags. I wrote my thanks & regrets. Frau von V. came again that day or the next & said the Emperor had commanded her to prepare dinner for him & me in her house—the date of the dinner to be the day that I shd be well enough.
A day or two ago, Jean was overheard to say—after some talk about this approaching event—“I wish I could be in papa’s clothes”—pause & reflection—“but it wouldn’t be any use, I reckon the Emperor wouldn’t reconnize me.”
Here they write the address & the signature in beautiful Latin script, & put the letter itself in the undecipherable Deutch script.
Drop-medicine bottles.
Ugliness & difficulty of deciphering German print.
Scrape & sand the streets.
Don’t shovel snow from roofs.
Mercifulness of court sentences.
Holiness of the sofa.
The world has come here to perfect its education.
v. Bülow, Moschkowski, Joachim, (& the great Russian) Rubinstein.
American colony.
Wild enthusiasm of G. audience at the Russian’s concerts, & his behavior.
The tenor at Marienbad.
Splendid big officers. Beautiful & elegant uniforms—even of privates—with long overcoats—but no umbrellas.
7,000 students.
Tasteless slovenliness & ugliness of G. papers—even worse than the French. French books are marvels of taste & fine workmanship—proving that they have printers there; whereas, if one saw only the papers he would think they hadn’t even apprentices. How clear & clean & beautiful [an] a London or N.Y. paper looks beside the[se] G. & F. papers.
I am reconciled to our display-heads, now. They tell me at a glance the contents of a column—but here I must spell the column through—& it takes an hour.
The great doctors say “Nach belieben” from old times—& now the smallest lawyer holds out his hat in the same way.
No good fountain pens.
They prize orders & wear them on a string, like fish.
Kiss the hand.
Gesegnete Mahlzeit.
The lovable German hackmen.
Smith’s girl had to unlock 3 doors & a gate at 9.30 p.m. to let Sue & Susy out.
The dog wagon.
[Stranger] The newcomer has to pay the first visit to the old resident. Embarrassing, but right.
Looking from Sick-room Window.
Feb. 10. All the swell carriages are out. Two passed through middle compartment of Brandenburger Thor—sacred to royalty—at a swift trot. Must walk thro’ the others.
Both had white-plumed footman on box. People took of hats to both.
Emperor’s carriages & liveries [seem to be] are much less showy than many of the nobility’s.
Dog-wagons.
The nobility horses go like the wind—good easy-going drivers, comfortable & at home.
B. Thor
R [R surrounded by a rectangle, with three columns in the rectangle on either side of R]
Bunce cablegram.
Hotels rooms on American plan.
The table of Europe has enormously improved. Coffee still worthless.
Prussian papers pretty free-spoken—Bavarian proofreader.
Postamt No. ... required me to sign cablegram—(in answer to a cable—might as rationally required me to sign a post-card. Also required me to add my Berlin address & pay for it.
Orders, & eagerness to get them.
The Emperor passes in modest open carriage.—Next that happy 12-year-old-butcher-boy all in white apron & turban—standing up & so proud!
How fast they drive—nothing like it but in London!
And the horses seem to be of very fine breed; though I am not an expert in horses & do not speak with assurance. I can always tell which is the front end of a horse, but beyond that my art is not above the ordinary.
Eupean double-window with a ventilator in upper end is best.
Marmalade, wine jelly, American crackers, baked American apples, other jellies, brandy peaches, &c.
Omnibuses turn in at Neuer Wilhelmstr.
Complexion of sky not good.
Can’t show, but tries.
Feb.
The trial of editor, artist & pressman (?) of Klatteradatch for calling the Holy Coat of Treves a Humbug came off the other day. They were acquitted because they didn’t make fun of [the] Holy Church’s “real relic[t]s!” As if there were any—or ever had been. It was drawing it fine.
Great stores with their whole fronts superbly pictured.
Others with mosaic pictures on front—some of these, dwellings.
[Above is a suggestion of what may have been in the Middle Ages] It ought to have been, but wasn’t.
Feb. 11. Court ball night (& on other such functions at the palace) the footmen up by the drivers wear a placard on their hats—showing that carriage contains invitees)—otherwise it couldn’t turn in to its place with the rest but would be switched off.
Crowds of these go flying by in the rain.
When the K & Q of Würtemberg were here they double-banked the Holy Land with soldiers—who shouted—& “He’s coming!”
I would like to be Emperor a while.
The police (mounted & otherwise) stationed at the principal streets.
Now & then a swell carriage is preceded by a swift mounted policeman.
Footman with white plumes blowing out behind. Royal.
Illuminations birth-day night (Jan. 27) were largely electrical.
Many of the [coachmen] footmen have black flowing plumes in cocked hats.
Now & then couple of gorgeous footmen up behind.
Apologize to the stove. And the rail cars.
Idiotic fashion of numbering the houses & naming the streets.
Embezzlers numerous.
Feb. 14. Professor Helmoltz called.
The “Court Gazette” of a German paper can be covered with a [visiting] playing card. In an English paper the movements of titled people take up about 3 times that room. In the papers of republican France from 6 to 16 times as much. There, if a ̭[duke]̭ duke’s dog should catch a cold in the head they would stop the press to announce it & [then] cry about it. In Germany they respect titles, in England they revere them, in France they adore them. That is, the F. newspapers do.
The most delicate, the most fastidious, the neatest person that ever was; he wouldn’t ever throw cigar ashes on the floor; if he hadn’t any ash pan he would put them in his ears.
“But [he probably] I reckon he wouldn’t reconnize me.”—Jean.
I ought to speak in G.
2 great privileges—don’t have to return calls (up 3 stories)—& shoot interviewers.
Grant not embarrassed—“mighty hard man to embarrass.”
Caprivi “seems angry” when talks loud—different with me.
Been taken for Mommsen twice. We have the same hair, but upon examination it was found that the brains [dif] were different.
In Dres. nobody appointed to respond to E’s health & explain his absence. I did it myself. Better acquainted with the customs now—see I didn’t need to be so sensitive about it—& not mor than half so active.
Middle-passage Thor & the Holy Land—for some reason haven’t been able to get through yet.
In that day the imperial lion & the democratic lamb shall sit down together & a little General shall feed them.
Germany the first of the great powers of the world to [take a] show a hearty & practical interest in the Fair—example followed in last ten days by Austria & France. Come to the Fair. Mr. P. would invite on behalf of Govt—my powers are wider—I offer the invitation of the nation itself. Snow on mountain August—diff. between knowledge & realization. They’ve never seen an E.—[1000] 900 miles double-rank people.
Have seen many high military officers—majors general, etc., [but this is] a General—a whole General—without any qualifying word in front of the title—that is a rare sight to me—& if I had been Gen v. V. I should grown somewhat in the last 2 mos., but I don’t see that his size has been affected. I [know] am sure—& it is immensely to his credit that I am able to [make the statement] say such a thing—I am that he could this day get into his old Lt. Gen. uniform & not start a seam. This is genuine modesty. [& al] And it isn’t a new acquisition; he had it always. You will find it in his literature. His account of his perilous running the gauntlet 25 yrs ago between the Brazilian & Paraguayan lines reads as [restfully] & modestly and unconsciously as a Sunday School Pleasure excursion. Now that is the difference between people–people who know how to make the most of their opportunities & people who don’t. He got about a page of literature out of that daring performance—just the mere bald unadorned facts. If I had done that thing I shd a got 3 or 4 books out of it—& not a fact in them anywhere.
No place for Chilluns!
Macveigh’s speech about Depew.
Christening.
Stammering.
Golden Arm.
Incor. Co. Mean Men.
Duel.
In that day the imperial lion & the democratic lamb shall sit down together & a little General shall feed them.
30 days sick abed—full of interest—read the debates & get excited over them, though don’t versteh. By reading keep in a state of excited ignorance: Like a blind man in a house afire—flounder around, immensely but unintelligently interested, don’t know how I got in & [don’t] can’t find the way out, but I’m having a booming time all to myself.
Don’t know what a Schelgesetzentwurf is, but I keep as excited over it & as worried about it as if it was my own child. I simply live on the Sch-E; it is my daily bread. I wouldn’t have the question settled for anything in the world. Especially [k]now that I’ve lost [my friend] the öffentliche Militärgericht circus. I read all the debates on that question with a never-fading interest but all at once they sprung a vote on me a couple of days ago & did something by vote of 100 to 143, but I couldn’t find out what it was.
[First she was afraid would die—last half was afraid wouldn’t.]
Here they recognize 2 [re] sects, Catholic & Lutheran (which appear to differ from each other nearly as much as a red-headed man differs from an auburn-haired man. These receive State support; & their schools receive State support. Other sects are taxed to support these sects & schools & have to run their own churches & schools at their own cost. It is infamous.
Just as infamous as it is with us—where no church property is taxed, & so the infidel the Atheist & the man without religion are taxed to make up the deficit in the public income thus caused.
Have struck only one indiscretion on the part of the Steuer people. I soon perceived that the various taxes were fair & right, & so I went on paying them every day or two, but at last there came one which appeared to tax me for church privileges. Now, I said, that is not fair. [I’ve never been to church since I’ve been in Berlin.] Surely this can’t be that kind of a tax. But a friend said it was—[said they were taxing my religion.]—& asked me how much?
“[Eight] 12 marks,” I said. [They’ve overtaxed [me] you; he said]
—“How long you been in Berlin?”
“5 months.”
“How many times you been to ch?
“Once.”
I went to Church the first Sunday & on the Tuesday came a tax of 12 M for Church-support. I have not been since. I can’t afford religious instruction at that price. Only the rich can be saved here.
That woman always reminds me of the Almighty. She is so well satisfied with herself.
He said:You have been a fool. If you had put in as many years improving your spiritual nature as you have put in on the G. language you could have been in heaven by this time.
The curtsy.
Use italics too much—w o r d - spacing.
Feb. 20/92. Dined at Gen. (lately Lt. Gen.) von [F]Versen’s. Sat at the right hand of the Emperor. His brother, Prince Heinrich, sat opposite; Price Radolin (Chamberlain) further along. 14 at table; mainly great military & naval people. Two of my friends besides the von Versens were there—Rottenburg and Rudolph Lindau, both of the foreign office.
After dinner 6 or 8 officers came in, & all hands adjourned to the big room out of the smoking room, & held a “smoking parliament” after the style of the ancient Potsdam one till midnight, when the Emperor shook hands & left.
Feb. 26. Day before yesterday the Emperor made a speech (as Markgraf of Brandenburg) to the little Brandenburg parliament assembled here at a banquet in the palace. Complained sharply of the “Nörgler” (grumblers) who are dissatisfied with the government, & suggested that if they don’t like the way things are they’d better “shake the German sand out of their slippers & leave.”
The speech has made a great stir. That & the odious (proposed) Schulgesetz & the lack of break & work resulted in a mob-gathering in front of the palace yesterday, (of people out of work.) They uttered revolutionary cries. Bakers’ bread was distributed to them, but they threw it away.
At Jean’s school this morning the children were forbidden to speak of the matter, but they said they’d tell her out of school.
Crowds of the proletariat drift up & down the Holy Land to-day. But the Emperor rode out as usual, & after him I saw the whole force of the royal carriages following—apparently all the royal women & all the children have turned out to show that they are not afraid.
Feb.26, midnight. Dinner at Coleman’s, Secretary of legation. Rottenburg, Vermouth, (German Commissioner of Chicago Fair,) one of the Foreign Secretaries of State, the von Versens, Col. Swayne—& others. At the Emperor’s dinner black cravats were ordered. To-night I went in a black cravat—& everybody else wore white. Just my luck.
Mentone, Mch. 9. Letter from Alfred Arnold proposing to dramatize Sellers for Crane, I to have “half of the revenue from the play”; no contract for its production to be made without my sanction of terms, &c; I to approve play or it not to be produced. Says he dramatized “Dr. Rameau” & has had experience.
Answered that if my other offer comes to nothing, shall be glad to take up the matter with him again.
His address is 679 Madison ave.
Berlin to Stettin 3 h. Then to Stockholm 2 days. Good steamers.
Pisa, Mch. 25 & ’6. Echo in Baptistery is the noblest & sweetest & richest & most resonant & long-sustained musical strain in the world. It is nearest like a chord of flutes, perhaps, or one of those orchestral combinations in Wagner with silver horns in it—but nothing can do more than merely approach it remotely, [nothing] no combination of voices or instruments can reproduce or adequately imitate it—for there is no building but this one where the strain would not have a noticeable flatness about it as compared with this noble roundness & fulness.
Pisa
Transparent cab horses.
Fur-collared & cuffed overcoats.
Bright green umbrellas.
Be sure & see the echo & the overcoats—they are the important things.
After that, see the Leaning tower, the Cathedral with lamp of Galileo, & the hideous frescoes of the Campo Santo. One with Christ emerging from a bath-tub coffin, 2 angels removing cover, 2 others approaching, one with folded arms, a Roman soldier asleep supporting himself on the fingers of one hand. The angels are all wings & no bodies.
The Devil (obscene).
The “equestrian” picture which pleases Baedeker.
Vedder
Via St. Basilio 20
Hotel Royal Via Venti Settembre
Pension Michel
72 Via Sistina
Eden Hotel
Via Porta Pincinna
Nine-dollar cablegram.
Rome, Mch. ’28.
Henry C. Robinson
Hartford
Accept the offer provided one half of Paige & Hammersley’s interests in the company be added to it. Otherwise decline.
Clemens
*Via Anglo? *[written along the margin.]
Answer
Had you not better accept Mallory’s proposition for royalities & leave half interest matter for settlement with Paige? R.
Response
Robinson Rome, Mch. 29
No, it is the only hold I have on P.
Hotel Molaro. Capole Casi.
Did you ever see a chicken [violently] floundering ̭frantically̭ around in the back yard with its head off? Well it is the only exact imitation in the world of the waltz as the German dances it. [A hundred] Fifty chickens floundering around in furious confusion with their heads off—that is the very large image of a German ball room at the time that the ladies and gentlemen believe themselves to be waltzing.
“Slaughtered to something a Roman holiday.” [One] The artist always uses this form.
Stanchfld6
Arnot5
Charley3
Ch. Clark1
S. Moffett1
P. “1
O.–––– 1
Sue5
L. Paulucci de Calboli
22 Lungo Tevere Prati po/po
Goodmans & Hague
Mr. Knight & junior
Mr. & Mrs.
Get Roba di Roma.
What time service at Lateran?
Rome, Apl. 1.
[Robinson, Hartford. Keep me posted here by cable.]
It went to England—& no further.
Rome, Apl. 5.
Robinson, Hartford. Do they offer no modification of the proposition? Clemens
R’s answer: No, See letter.
Confidence Rewarded; or, The Fortunate F–––
E–Edwards. 18
S–Sargent 25M–Milne 9
M–Miss Morris 38
B– “ Bishop 42
C–Corbett. 48V–Vedder. 68
Piazzi di Spagni [there is a map drawn, a u-shaped road with Monti Trinitata and Hotel Molaro boxed off at either end. E, S, M, B, and C are markers on the left side of the road while M and V are markers on the right side of the road]
EMonti M
Trinitata
S
M
B
V
C
Hotel
Molaro
The badge of the bore [ ] head—female—confession of lowly estate all over the continent.
Via dell’ Umilita.
53B Magonta. Harriet Hosmer’s Studio—4 p.m. Wednesday.
Ezekiel’s Studio—4 p.m. Tuesday.
Rome, Apl 18/92
Robinson, Hartford.
See letter March 28. Trade must include fair share of that interest.
Clemens
Rome, Apl. 20
Webster Co.
Close with Arnold if you like.
Clemens
Apl. 19, wrote Robinson I would take million & 1/6 of Paige’s interest, but would prefer ¼.
Mrs. Horwitz—lunch.
Monday, call at Palazzo Borghese at [3.30] 12.45 & go with Miss Page on that visit.
Monday from 2 to 3 p.m. sit for Miss Meadows, Via di Grecci 15.
*Monday eve, Marriage of Figaro. *[written along the margin.]
Dine with Sculptor Greenough
243 Via Nationale, Wednesday, Apl. 27—7.30 p.m.
22 Apl. For Frascati, Joseph. 50 f.
O Thou! who didst with pitfall & with gin
Beset the Road I was to wander in,
Thou wilt not with Predestined Evil round
Enmesh, & then impute my fall to sin!
Oh Thou who Man of baser earth didst make,
And even with Paradise devise the Snake,
For all the Sin wherewith the face of Man
Is blacken’d—Man’s forgiveness give—& take!
69
The Revelations of devout & learn’d
Who rose before us & as prophets burn’d,
Are all but Stories, which, awake from sleep,
They told their fellows, & to sleep return’d.
26
Why, all the saints & sages who discuss’d
Of the Two Worlds so learnedly are thrust
Like foolish prophets forth; their words to scorn
Are scattered & their mouths are stopt with rust.
Miss Page
64 Via Pat La Marchesa Spi lu’s.
Write Poultney Bigelow.
[Andre otherthat sculptress] 1
[Get small money at bank.] 2
Tell them to send kodaks &c to bank in Florence.—[(Cook?)]
Leave Florence address with Molaro & tell him look out for cablegrams.
[Cable Mr. Greenough]3
“” Ross4Consul 6
“” Vedder5
[Send 40f to Dr. Munthe. X] 7
[Telegraph for rooms. X] 8
[Mother Waldstein & Miss Agnes. X] 9
Send Vedder’s book home.
[Dwight][13 Vdi S. Agnolo]
10
[Benito, artist] [de T
[Letter of credit. X] 11
[Lady Le] 12Stillman15
Lemon16
[Miss Edwards.] 13
[Mrs. Young Adams, Hotel S ]
Florence. ’92
Saturday, Apl. 30
Came from Rome to Florence yesterday. This is the hotel Grande Bretagne & Arno—called the best in Florence. It is a vast confusion of halls & sleeping holes—a huge congeries of rats’ nests furnished with rubbish probably bought at pauper-auctions. The [food is] cook is the best in Florence, no doubt. He is first class; the rest of the hotel is fortieth class.
Later. Sir George Bowen says the cookery is bad now—May 10.
No matches;
“ goblets;
“ extra blankets;
Stench of frying fat, & thick kitchen smoke coming up through floor & filling the room;
Bells seldom answered;
Mrs. Crane’s bed not changed after waiting 1½ hours.
Carpet-beating in the court & wagon-racket & barking dogs in early morning.
Everything on the cheapest & shabbiest scale, except the bills.
People always yelling down the lift-well—trying to attract attention.
Long vistas of crooked halls with elevations & depressions in them.
Everywhere the dirt of antiquity, everywhere gigantic fleas that threaten your life.
And the frescoes—oh, my God! Every detail of the house is exquisitely cheap & shabby.
In the parlors they peddle cheap copies of the old masters.
This hotel has nothing to recommend it but its reputation. No—its cook.
Dentists
Dunn, Dentist Piazza St. Maria Novella I.
Heims 8 Borgogna Santa
Wm Godney Bunce
Café Veneta Marina
Riva Schiavoni Venice.
Larkin G. Meade
4 bis Via della Officini.
TRIBUNE
Florence, May 3/92.
Madonna, child & child St. John. Three children, for the Madonna is a physically developed woman 9 years old. St John is wretchedly drawn. The whole picture is poor. With Raphael’s name removed it would be dear at $1.50.
The Wrestlers are wonderful.
They try to tell when a picture or other work was made by the character of the workmanship—forgetting that there are good & bad workmen in all ages.
Fisk Lungo il Mugnone3A
Breakfast Tuesday 12.30 with the Marquise or send word if Mrs. C. has engagement.
Prof Fiske used to edit a chess journal, & in Icelandic games he used to translate the terms into English; but there was one embarrassing term which he always left untranslated to the great annoyance of his readers: this was the––[starter’s] Gambit. or .........starting Gambit.
May 9/92
In Rome two weeks ago, Young Corbett told me of his adventure in the Capagna with his friend Martin when two terrific dogs came for them & their peasant guide put up a prayer to the Virgin & she vouchsafed a miracle wh saved them—certainly the most peculiar miracle ever heard of—but it won’t bear print.
May 8, 9, 10.
These days Joseph has been about as idle & hard to find as ever, though the seat at the door is comfortable.
Visiting Cards
Shirts
Whisky
Ross Villa voyage.
Sir James P. Lacaita
34 Viale Amede (i?)
Sir George F. Bowen
Hotel Grand Bretagne
75 Cadogan Square, London
Man arrested on a charge of having tried to commit suicide. How lovely!
May 12/92
Ask Mr. Ross how to pay Orsi, who has hired the Villa for us from Sept. 1 at 3,000 francs a year (furnished) with a two-year privilege (of re-renting.)
Will Mrs. Ross please keep that man-servant where we can get him Sept.1? What wages? Shall we hire him now?
And [can] if your cook can be on the lookout for a cook for us.
Mrs. Orsi (widow) came with Orsi the agent this morning to close the contract for Villa.
What is the name of Villa? [written later in ink] Villa del Viviani, Settignano, Firenze.
invente de toute piece—out of whole cloth.
Henry J. Ross
Poggio Gherardo
via Settignanse
Firenze.
Willard Fiske
Villa Landor, Firenze.
Rome–––5 weeks. Boots
Waiter–––30 fr. 2d
Chamber md 20Portier
&c &c
Florence–––15 days
Waiter––––––––––– 1 fr per day 15
Chambermaid––––– 1 “ ” “15
Portier–––––––––––––––––––––– 10 fr.
Boots––––––––––––––––––––––– 10 ”
2d baggage or omnibus––––––––– 3
Arrived at Venice [Sunday] Saturday midnight, May 1[5]4. Staid at the Brittania—did not like it—moved to the Hotel Danieli next morning.
Always have to call for soft pillows in [Ital] continental hotels. They keep none in stock. Their pillows are loaded with sand & ̭arḙ wonderfully firm.
Non andate tanto presto.
Non andate tanto adagio.
Venite qui.
Fâte il piacêre (have the goodness)
Dâtemi—give me del vino.
Andâta a vidêre, go & see
Buona sêra—buona notte
Qui (here) la (there)
Non fâte cosî.
̭I wanṱ Vorrêi qualche cosa da mangiâre (eat) da bêve (drink)
Cômevi chiamâte?
Che cosa c’e? (What’s the matter?)
Voltâte a sinistra—a destra.
Chiudête la porta.
Shut.
Aspettâte un momento—giû quî.—sotto—sopra.
Dov’e la sala da pranzo.
Troppo caro—grande—lungo—corto—piccolo.
Mettêtelo sulla tâvola.
Non importa (or) non fa niente. Never mind.
Cosino—not that way.
Fermâte—stop
Prendâte—take.
Badâte—take care.
Portâte via (or) levâte questo.
Pagâte ̭(pay)̭ il gondolier
Fâtemi il piacêre (please)
Che? (What?) Che cosa dite?
What do you say?
Che peccâto (What a pity).
Scusâte (excuse me).
Lo so—I know it. Non so—I don’t know.
Non capisco (undestand
Capisco (I understand.)
Caspisce ( he - - - - s)
Dette, I gave
Vado, I go.
piôve—it rains.
e piovûto—[Has] it has rained.
mi piâcta, I like
rimângo, I remain qui
Little, poco.
Many, molti
Much, molto
Comê, how
How many, quanti
Posso sedêre qui May I sit down here?
Che cos’è questo (What is this?)
Che ore sono? What time is it.
Non sarebbe meglio—Would it not be better
Di nîente, don’t mention it.
Come in, avanti.
Volête avêre (would you have) la bonta.
A rivedêrci, good bye.
Sono contento, I am glad.
“ mi dispiâce, sorry.
Sedête, sit down.
Si cambia treno per, do we change cars for
Spezziamo, fermiamo
let us stop or halt.
Monday, May 16, took Antonio the gondolier at 7 francs a day.
Tuesday evening, at Mrs. Bronson’s. Prince (forget his name), & the young Countess Moncenigo, descended from 8 Doges. [of that name.]
Hotel Brittania
Cadenabia.
opp. Bellagio. Big rooms & good attention & food.
Smoking party Monday 8.30 to 12 p.m. at Horatio Brown’s, 559 Zattere (Ca. Torresella.)
Miss Blyth & Leigh-Smith
788 Zattere (Mustapha Superieur.
Mr. & [Mrs.] Augustus Montalba.
Mrs. Anthony “
The Misses “
809 Campo. S Agnese.
Tower of St. Georgio di Grazie in a little canal above Hotel Danieli—seen from the Gran Canal, it leans.
Sunday, May 22/92—“White line of stones” wh begins in the great Piazza San Marco & conducts you all over Venice & brings you back. When lost cut around till you find the white line, then follow it to St. Mark.
*No such thing. *[written across the preceding paragraph]
Tried to make the Johnsons, Browns, Sarah Orne Jewett, Mrs. James T. Fields, Mr. Washington understand (with Clara's help) the old puzzle of Whitmore taking me around the loop in his buggy. Of course they all laughed at my stupidity at first, but this is just a "$100-bill & pair of boots" puzzle before they get done with it. I am cross. I insisted that in order
road [a figure drawn here indicates a road with a loop at one end. The path the buggy around the loop is marked by each rider, O and +, using a dotted line]
O
+
+
O
house [a rectangle next to house indicates the location of the house]
that I might arrive back on the side of the buggy next to the house, we must drive to the left around the circle; W. said that to drive either side would have that result. He was right.
This brought up the boy & boat at Geneva where Jean pulled a pair of oars & Mrs. C. said it eased the boy of half of his work; whereas if the boy had to work his hardest, a hundred Jeans could not diminish his expense of strength; it would help him if speed were the object, but in this case he was working by the hour & speed was not an object.
We drank a red cherry syrup & water in big glasses & told dreams & ghost stories till midnight—then by vote adjourned to to-night.
Then visited the 2 lamps which have burned for ages on the end of the Church to commemorate the wrongful execution of the baker's apprentice.
Belle Arti. No. 27. Near 21 (the famous Presentation of the Virgin)—27 is as rich as moonlight—lovely colors—the fisherman bringing the ring to the Doge. Much more beautiful & interesting than 21.
You can tell Carpaccio by the faces of his people. His men are all alike, his women are all alike.
This is true of Bellini's people, too. And of some modern artists. Models scarce & costly no doubt.
Colomb d'Or, Verona, good hotel.
In her letter of May 17 Mrs. Ross says she has hired a man servant for us at 45 fr. per month (without bonus) we to feed, loodge wairls (?) & wine him—or pay him money for his wine. She has got wood for us, & a cook & also a charwoman.
Rome, Hotel Molaro. 1st floor. 8 persons—(2 of them servants.) 111 fr. a day for everything—& a parlor & meals served in it.
1st floor.
Florence, Hotel New York. 116 fr. per day for everything, light (including 2 or 3 lamps,) service, &c. & a prodigious parlor, 40 x 40 & 30 ft high.
Hotel Danieli, Venice, 2d floors. Big parlor & everything, 123 fr. pr day.
Hotel Continental, Milan,—parlor & a splendid suite of rooms, 1st floor, everything for [12] 110 fr. pr. day. Electric lights, parlor, ice,—but we ate in the public dining room. In the previous instances, the meals were served in our parlor.
Breakfasts consisted of coffee, beefsteak & potatoes for me; for the others, coffee, tea & cocoa, with eggs (7) & honey. We had the complete luncheon but knocked one or two courses out of the dinner.
May 27. Cadenabbia, Lake of Como, Hotel Brittania, 1st floor—all front rooms, looking across to Bellagio & the snow-clad peaks. Everything 90 fr. per day.
May 28. Saturday. Took Salvitora & his boat at 8 fr. per day.
Asti is mighty dainty & good—when you call it good. But no man can tell it from champagne cider.
June 2, Thursday. Left Cadenabbia by a tangled route, for Lucerne: First, 15 minutes of omnibus to the mountain railway; then 30 or 40 minutes of that; then 70 or 8 minutes of little vile steamboat on Lake Lugarno (all of it superb scenery); then up a ladder road a Lugarno—a wait of 1 hour there; then express to Lucerne. The whole a 9-hour journey—all first-class, no second—8 of us 35 fr. each, & God knows what the 8 trunks (380 kilos) will cost; it has cost 70 fr. from the start to Lugano.
June 4. Stayed 2 days at "The Balances" (Waage) Lucerne, & left there at 6.50 this morning for Frankfort (9-hour journey).
An excellent hotel
Changed at Basel, but in the same station—no trouble.
Get French money changed.
Verify Berlin train.
Get steamship tickets.
Telegraph Hotel Bellevue, Nauheim.
Buy trunk for Jean.
2 Cook tickets to Berlin & one to return.
Ask about a train from Berlin arriving in time to catch a Nauheim train.
In the history of the Church it was claimed that this saint did some surprising miracle, but this is probably a campaign lie.
Frankfurt a. M. June 6.
At Schwan hotel 2 days.
Gave room-waiter––––––––––––– 2 M
Portier–––––––––––––––––––––– 2 "
Chambermaid–––––––––––––––– 2 "
Boots (each)––––––––––––––––– 1 "
Elevator boy––––––––––––––––– 1 "
*[Couldn't find restaurant waiter.]
Everybody perfectly satisfied.
Left for Bad Nauheim at 12.37, after missing 1.05 train (express) through Joseph's misinformation.
18.50
7 [333]
1[26]30
65 6666
195 3 6
198 426
[ [8] [9] from here, 9 arr at Munich 2 stunden; Frankfurt—8 from here snelling 2 hour in Frankft—8 pm Munich.
Ask at Sommerhof's for a physician. 12M. & 5 M.
[Also what in Erfurt]
[Shave] Cigars.
Inquire about Clara's ticket.
Shoes. Knife.
Can L. use my letter of credit?
About my date & train to Bremen.
Tobacco.
No. 43, Night of the 8th. Berlin to B—Nauheim.
In Frankfurt, eine sehr angenehme Stuhl (camp) verschaffen.
Auch ein Paar brune Schuhe.
Fragen stellen an den Zug der geht vom Bremen nach Bremerhaven ab.
Frage ob ein gutes hotel sich neben dem Bahnhof befindet.
Man muss den [Schn] Snellzug nach Bremen bestätigen. —Richtig gesagt 9.05 [Morgen]
He can say baths as well as you can, & yet his is a German. Other Germans say "basses."
Send 150 fr to Wm. Neighbour, Aix les Bains.
Show Mason Cecile's ticket.
A very direct train leaves Berlin a trifle after noon, but they would not let Cecile take it.
Get diamond set in ring.
I was complimented a good deal on my German in Berlin. On one occasion I emptied out a sentence consisting of 47 words & it had only 63 grammatical errors in it.
Hessenberg, Zeil 67 Schlund, Bleidenstr 28. Here they martyrize the roast beef.
You might as well try to tell the age of butter by the color of the hair in it.
W.C. "Besetz"—"Frei."
Window shutters of a good plan.
Pull the end arm-rest out & lay it on the seat & it makes a good pillow.
In Hotel de l'Europe, at Bremen: "Zur Benutzung des Aufzuges ist durch Drücken auf diesen Knopf der Liftboy zu benachrichten."
Arrived here at 5.23 June 13—left Nauheim 9.05 a.m.
Dr. H. M. v. Starkloff, Consul at Bremen. Send King Arthur.
Blankets for steerage passengers—take them ashore if they like—the Nord Deutchen Lloyd printed on them.
Spree goes July 12
Kaiser W. II " 16.
Havel " 26.
Com–T. [ CB7
[F. 83 83] 181 185 [line drawn encompassing 185 and 56]
6070 ft B.
B - 158 161forward of 56
storm
B 211 216 [square drawn around B -158 161 and B 211 216]
2725 bow
[66 68 F
55 57 F57]
71 73 F
33 34 F] [line on right side encompassing the four lines ending with F]
Trim-tank. (25 tons
Double-Bottom N.1
2
3
4
Isaac Henderson
c/o John Nolty, Esq.
Evening Post Building
Broadway & Fulton Street
New York.
[written by another hand than Mark Twain’s]
N.B. When in England, don't forget to send word to
22 The Boltons
London. S.W
Leave Chicago in afternoon by the N.Y. limited.
Cbm. T.
Fresh.
60 or 70 81 83
66 68
55 57
71 73
33 34
24 25 bow–Trim tank.
55 57 100 ft back
385.397
Salt Water ballast.
181 185
55 56
158 161
211 216
605 618
June 29. Lake Shore & Mich Southern & N.Y. Central. [Yester] To-day a man timed the train & said we were making 65 miles an hour. The porter says we sometimes make 70, & that over a distance of 400 miles we average 62. Over there, the fastest train goes from Frankfort to Nauheim in 40 minutes (25 miles)—37½ miles an hour.
It takes the express 9 hours to go from Berlin to Frankfort. Slow!
Manuscript.
Laffan.
Fairchild Cob pipes
(Who was his lawyer in Hd?)
Howells?
Johnson, Gilder, &c.
[Whisky.] [(mend glasses)]
Joan of Arc.
Where is my interest paid?
[How much income can you guarantee me.]
[Halsey, Charris & Co.15 Wall.]
Wirt pen
Visit to Heaven.
[Patrick's Jimmy.]
[Send me the Halsey interest to Europe.]
[CHICAGO SHIRT.]
Package Witch Hazel Jelly—at the office.
[Accept Daly's offer.]
[KENNEDY'S WALT WHITMAN (Letter)]
[If you receive a cable "Sell," mail copies of it to H. C. Robinson & Whitmore.
or mail to Germany
[Give me the type-wr M.S.]
[We will sign notes now.]
[Give or mail me that Draft on London.]
[Tell Halsey to take his time, but make safe investments.]
[I don't get a royalty account on Grant.]
[What went with the $4000 that was to come due last May—on cheap Huck Finn, &c? Been credited to personal account?
MONEY1 W. H. Jelly
2 MS.
3 Shirt.
[Write Whitmore that if yes, we cable "Websterco, NY–sell."
If no, I write instead of cabling. If she relents later, I will beat the letter with above cablegram.]
The royalties block any Co & prevent its formation.
But on the other hand, if that fellow dies, his fool of a son will let everything go to pot.
Nothing but a Co can manufacture—& P. is determined there never shall be one, except on his own terms—& they will never be granted. Laffan says the $2,000,000 was all ready, but P. would not extend the option.
He said of Jones Co., "if ever they fail [to] in the money supply the entire thing will fall into my hands." He was bent on robbery.
He will repeat that. Stock in such a Co would be worthless; gross proceeds could not be sold—too cumbersome for market.
The life of the patents begins to run, with the first that goes into service. It can be 5 yrs after that before things get going. He is dissipated, & will not live so long.
[After you have contracted with Daly, get Corbett's play & mail it to him.]
[Ask Chatto send me cheap Sawyer & Huck Finn to Nauheim.]
[Stand by! When ready to simultane my new story, treat with McClure or that other man for English serial publication. Let both bid.]
Get ream of writing paper.
July 4, '92. Union League Club, noon. I breakfasted here yesterday about 10. Sat around till 2 pm, should say. Loafed down to Glenham hotel & in my room enjoyed the prodigious downpour of rain awhile; then went to bed (3 or 4 p.m.) & was soon absorbed in "The Little Minister," with shutters closed & gas lit. Hours & hours afterward—no idea how many, for no clocks were in hearing, but my instinct & the diminished street noises assured me it was about 2 a.m.—I suddenly thought, "[Damnation] my watch has run down, of course!" & I leaped out of bed, got the thing from my vest on the wall-hook & put it to my ear. Yes, it was silent. Opened it, took a careless glance—apparently 11.30 p.m.—"been stopped more than 2 hours" I said;—listened—no tick hearable; wound it up, closed it; after a moment unclosed it & listened to make sure it had started up again; it hadn't; shook it, listened, shook it again, then it started up & I put it back in the vest pocket & returned to bed. I finished my book as quickly as possible—say in half an hour—then rushed myself to sleep, to capture what was left of the night (morning.) When I woke I felt well rested-up. Rose & looked at my watch—6 a.m.—"true time is about 8.30," I said, & ordered breakfast & the paper brought to my room. Ate the breakfast, read the "World" through, wrote a letter or two, began "A Window in Thrums." By & by, dressed & went up Fifth Ave—noticed the clock in front of Fifth Ave Hotel—took out my watch to set it. By George, it & the clock were precisely together!—10.14. What was it that called me out of bed the very instant that my watch had run down & stopped the night before?
This is the very counterpart of Mr. Child's adventure with his watch in Florence.
After July 1 '92, my royalties are to be sent to me by check, a few hundred dollars per month.
[several pages have been left blank here, just before the final pages of the notebook, which contain mainly addresses]
Dr. Steiger, & his son a dentist, Lucerne.
Frau Damann, Lucerne.
Miss Cosson, Geneva. Small pension for 6—speaks Eng. Ger. & Fr.
Villa del Viviana, Settignano, Firenze
Lungo il Mugnone 3 A Fiske
Consul General Capt. Frank Mason, 78 Niedenau str.
Dr. W. Bade, Ludwigstr. a. d. Usabrücke.
Wm B Kennedy Carson Pine Scott & Co Chicago.
Julian Corbett
Imber Court
Thames Ditton.
Arv. Thos. Childs
Via Alfieri 4. Firenze
Sig. Leopoldo Orsi
7, Via della Vigne Vecchia
Hofrath Dr. Oertel
Bayerstrasse 4 / II. Munich.
Dr. W. W. Baldwin
Villa Rubio
1 Via Palestra, Florence
Henry J. Ross, Poggio Gherardo Via Settignanese, Firenze.
Willard Fiske, Villa Landor.
Mrs. Arthur Bronson Casa Alvisi, Venezia.
'Tis matter of will, choice, with us, 'tis matter wholly & whether we make of the a or make of the sigh—
Rudolph Lindau
Sigismundstr 5I
Wilhelmstr. 76.
11 for "acquitment."
Regensburger, Friedr 49a
[Von Bunsen, Maien 1.]
Seidel, Karlsbads 11.
Dr. Nelson, Klopstks 11.
Capt Bingham.
3 Lenne str—3 p.m.
[Photographer, noon.]
Embassy—noon.
Consul, Markgrafen 49.
100 Kurfursten, Boise, Thursday
99" " Mensing.
Miss Molt 132 Kurfürstendam. (Book—Atlantis.)
Dr. Luschau, (Museum.)
[Letter of credit.]
Mrs. Willard 21 Nettlebech.
1 Seidel, book. Molt 4
3 Nelson Willard 2
Boise Moszkowski.
T
Bensing
Marneintendantersecretariatsapplicant.
[Dr. Oscar Lassar,
Reichstagsufer 1. (book.)]
(top)
Moszkowski, Genthenerstr 36
Frau Dr. Hempel.
Dr. Stanley Rendall, Villa Biosge.
Hottinguer, Banker Rue de Provence, Paris.
London, Barring Bros. bankers.
Lady Edmund Fittzmaurice & Mrs. W. J. Fitz Gerald.
Starkloff.
D.A. Regensburger, Ass. Press.
Friederichst 49a
König grätzestr.
Dr. Lauschau, Privatdocent an der Universittät—Directoral Asst bei dem K. Museum für Völkerkunde—W. Maasen str. 25.
Max Horwitz, Ed. Nat1. Zeitung.
Therese Reichenberger
Feuerbackstr 46, Frankfurt a/M.
Alard du Bois-Reymond.
Westend, Ahorn-allee 42.
H.v. Helmholz, Marchstr 25 Charlottenburg.
Trunks. Phaland & Dietrich Oranienburgerstr 13-14.
Miss Hawdon
c/o Lady Trevelyan
74 Harley Street Cavendish Sqre
Reform Club
Frank Finlay, 70 Gloucester Place, Portman Square.
(preference)
Dr Gerhard & Dr. Leyden, Berlin—recommended for Mrs. C by Louis Woldst.
Dr. Chas. Waldstein, King's College Cambridge
Rooneby, Siveden. Copenhagen to Malmo by boat, 1½ hr. Take another boat, straight to Ronneby. (This boat every other day.)
Hotel Binda (Avenue de l'Opera & rue de l'Echelle (Excellent).
Dr. Heinrich Hoffman
Grüneburgweg 952
Geheim. Sanitätsrath
Frankfurt a.M.
Dr. Oscar Lassar, Reichstags Ufer 1.
Mosse, 20 Schutzenstr
Frau I.", Ilsenburg.