30 January 1862 • Carson City, Nev. Terr. (Keokuk Gate City, 6 Mar 62, UCCL 00034)
Bully, isn’t it? I mean the poetry, madam, of course. Doesn’t it make you feel just a little “stuck up” to think that your son is a—Bard? And I have attained to this proud eminence without an effort, almost. You see, madam, my method is very simple and easy—thus: When I wish to write a great poem, I just take a few lines from Tom, Dick and Harry, Shakspeare, and other poets, and by patching them together so as to make them rhyme occasionally, I have accomplished my object. Never mind the sense—sense, madam, has but little to do with poetry. By this wonderful method, any body can be a poet—or a bard—which sounds better, you know.2explanatory note
But I have other things to talk about, now—so, if you please, we will drop the subject of poetry. You wish to know where I am, and where I have been? And, verily, you shall be satisfied. Behold, I am in the middle of the universe—at the centre of gravitation—even Carson City. And I have been to the land that floweth with gold and silver—Humboldt.3explanatory note (Now, do not make any ridiculous attempt, ma, to pronounce the “d,” because you can’t do it, you know.) I went to the Humboldt with Billy C., and Gus., and old Mr. Tillou.Ⓐemendation 4explanatory note With a two-horse wagon, loaded with eighteen hundred pounds of provisions and blankets—necessaries of life—to which the following luxuries were added, viz: Ten pounds of Killikinick,5explanatory note two dogs, Watt’s Hymns, fourteen decks of cards, “Dombey and Son,” a cribbage board, one small keg of lager beer and the “ carminia Ⓐemendationsacrae.”6explanatory note
At first, Billy drove, and we pushed behind the wagon. Not because we were fond of it, ma—Oh, no—but on Bunker’s account. Bunker was the “near” horse, on the larboard side. Named after the Attorney General of this Territory. My horse—you are acquainted with him, by reputation, already—and I am sorry you do not know him personally, ma, for I feel towards him, sometimes, as if he were a blood relation of our family—he is so infernally lazy, you know—my horse, I was going to say—was the “off” horse on the starboard side. But it was on Bunker’s account, principally, that we pushed behind the wagon. For whenever we came to a hard piece of road, that poor, lean, infatuated cuss would fall into a deep reverie about something or other, and stop perfectly still, and it would generally take a vast amount of black-snaking and shoving and profanity to get him started again; and as soon as he was fairly under way, he would take up the thread of his reflections where he left off, and go on thinking, and pondering, and getting himself more and more mixed up and tangled in his subject, until he would get regularly stuck again, and stop to review the question.
And always in the meanest piece of road he could find.
In fact, Ma, that horse had something on his mind, all the way from here to Humboldt; and he had not got rid of it when I left there—for when I departed, I saw him standing, solitary and alone, away up on the highest peak of a mountain, where no horse ever ventured before, with his pensive figure darkly defined against the sky—still thinking about it.
Our dog, Tom, which we borrowed at Chinatown without asking the owner’s permission, was a beautiful hound pup, eight months old.7explanatory note He was a love of a dog, and much addicted to fleas. He always slept with Billy and me. Whenever we selected our camp, and began to cook supper, Tom, aided and abetted by us three boys, immediately commenced laying his plans to steal a portion of the latter; and with our assistance, he generally succeeded in inserting his long, handsome nose into every dish before anybody else. This was wrong, Ma, and we know it—so, to atone for it, we made Mr. Tillou’s Ⓐemendationdog stand around whenever he attempted any such liberties. And when our jolly supper was swallowed, and the night was on the wane, and we had finished smoking our pipes, and singing songs, and spinning yarns, and telling lies, and quoting scripture, and all that sort of thing, and had begun to look for a soft place on the ground to spread our blankets on, Tom, with immense sagacity, always assisted in the search, and then with becoming modesty, rewarded himself by taking first choice between the blankets. No wonder we loved the dog.
But, Mr. Tillou’s Ⓐemendationdog, “Curney,” we utterly despised. He was not a long, slender, graceful dog like Tom, but a little mean, white, curly, grinning whelp, no bigger than a cat—with a wretched, envious, snappish, selfish disposition, and a tail like an all-wool capital O, curled immodestly over his back, and apparently wrenched Ⓐemendationand twisted to its place so tightly that it seemed to lift his hind legs off the ground sometimes. And we made Tom pester him; and bite his tail; and his ears; and stumble over him; and we heaped trouble and humiliation upon the brute to that degree that his life became a burden to him. And Billy, hating the dog, and thirsting for his blood, prophesied that Curney would come to grief. And Gus and I said Amen. And it came to pass according to the words of the prophet. Thus.
On the fifth day out, we left the village of Ragtown, and entered upon the Forty-five mile Desert, where the sand is of unknown depth, and locomotion of every kind is very difficult; where the road is strewn thickly with the skeletons and carcasses of dead beasts of burden, and charred remains of wagons; and chains, and bolts and screws, and gun-barrels, and such things of a like heavy nature as weary, thirsty emigrants, grown desperate, have thrown away, in the grand hope of being able, when less encumbered, to reach water.8explanatory note We left Ragtown, Ma, at nine o’clock in the morning, and the moment we began to plow through that horrible sand, Bunker, true to his instincts, fell into a reverie so dense, so profound, that it required all the black-snaking and shoving and profanity at our disposal to keep him on the move five minutes at a time. But we did shove, and whip and blaspheme all day and all night, without stopping to rest or eat, scarcely, (and alas! we had nothing to drink, then.) And long before day-light we struck the Big Alkali Flat—and Curney came to grief; for the poor devil got alkalied—in the seat of honor. You see he got tired, traveling all day and all night, nearly—immensely tired—and sat himself down by the way-side to rest. And lo! the iron entered his soul (poetical figure, Ma.) And Ⓐemendationwhen he rose from that fiery seat, he began to turn somersets, and roll over and over and kick up his heels in the most frantic manner, and shriek, and yelp and bark, and make desperate grabs at his tail, which he could not reach on account of his excitement and a tendency to roll over; and he would drag himself over the ground in a sitting posture, (which afforded him small relief, you know,) and then jump up and yelp, and scour away like the wind, and make a circuit of three hundred yards, for all the world as if he were on the Pony Express. And we three weary and worn and thirsty wretches forgot our troubles, and fell upon the ground and laughed until all life and sense passed out of us, and the colic came to our relief and brought us to again, while old Mr. Tillou Ⓐemendationwiped his spectacles, and put them on, and looked over them, and under them, and around them, in a bewildered way, and “wondered,” every now and then, “what in the h—ll was the matter with Curney.”
We thought,—yea, we fondly hoped, ma,—that Curney’s time had come. But it was otherwise ordained. Mr. Tillou Ⓐemendationwas much exercised on account of his dog’s misery, and, sharing his misery, we recommended a bullet as a speedy remedy, but the old gentleman put his trust in tallow, and Curney became himself again, except that he walked behind the wagon for many hours with humble mienⒶemendation, and tail transformed from a brave all-wool capital O to a limp and all-wool capital J, and gave no sign when Tom bit his ears or stumbled over him.
We took up our abode at Unionville, in Buena Vista Mining District, Humboldt county, after pushing that wagon nearly 200 miles, and taking eleven days to do it in.9explanatory note And we found that the “National” lead there was selling at $50 per foot, and assayed $2,496 per ton at the Mint in San Francisco. And the “Alba Nueva,” “Peru,” “Delirio,” “Congress,” “Independence,” and others, were immensely rich leads.10explanatory note And moreover, having winning ways with us, we could get “feet” enough to make us all rich one of these days. And again that mills would be in operation there by the 1st of June.11explanatory note And in the Star District, O. B. O’Bannon, of Keokuk, was flourishing, and had plenty of “feet,” and in the Santa Clara District, Harroun and Jo. Byers of Memphis, Mo., likewise and ditto.12explanatory note And Billy put up his shingle as Notary Public, and Gus put up his as Probate Judge, and I mounted my horse (in company with the Captain and the Colonel) and journeyed back to Carson, leaving them making preparations for a prospecting tour;13explanatory note and before I can go to Esmeralda and get back to Humboldt, they will have laid, with the certainty of fate, the foundation of their fortunesⒶemendation. It’s a great country, ma.
Now, ma, I could tell you how, on our way back here, the Colonel and the Captain and I got fearfully and desperately lousy; and how I got used to it and didn’t mind it, and slept with the Attorney General, who wasn’t used to it, and did mind it;14explanatory note but I fear my letter is already too long. Therefore—sic transit gloria mundi, e pluribus unum forever! Amen. (Latin, madam—which you don’t understand, you know).
The editor of the Gate City provided this heading for Clemens’s letter: “It is hardly necessary to say how this letter fell into our hands. Let it suffice that we know it was intended for publication.”
Clemens’s pastiche begins with the opening line of William Collins’s ode “How Sleep the Brave,” written in 1746. Sources for the other lines have not been identified.
An irreverent allusion to Exodus 3:8—“. . . unto a land flowing with milk and honey.” The Humboldt mining area, located approximately one hundred and seventy-five miles northeast of Carson City in the Humboldt Mountain Range, had become the new El Dorado of Nevada Territory by December 1861. Clemens left Carson City for Humboldt sometime in the second week of that month. The excursion that followed lasted approximately seven weeks. It included, on the return trip, eight water-bound days at Honey Lake Smith’s, a trading post on the road to Carson City, and, beginning on 19 January, at least another week flood-bound in Virginia City. Given the constant rain and snow that washed out the roads, travel to Carson City would have been hazardous if not impossible before the end of January (“Humboldt,” Marysville Appeal, 2 Feb 62, 3; “From the Humboldt Mines,” Stockton Weekly Independent, 8 Feb 62, 2). Clemens later described his Humboldt trip in detail in chapters 27–33 of Roughing It. He also recalled it in a letter dated 12 February 1866 to the Virginia City Territorial Enterprise (“Personal”) and in chapter 27 of The Innocents Abroad.
Clemens’s companions were: his Keokuk friend William H. Clagett, recently appointed notary public of Unionville, the Humboldt County seat; Cornbury S. Tillou, a Carson City blacksmith and jack-of-all-trades (Kelly 1862, 89); and Augustus W. (Gus) Oliver, appointed probate judge of Humboldt County by Governor Nye on 10 December 1861. Born in Maine in 1835 and trained as a lawyer, Oliver had migrated to California in 1860 and, before going to Unionville, had worked as a Carson City journalist reporting the first Territorial Legislature. His later career took him back to California, where he was a schoolteacher and principal in San Diego and Gilroy, and a judge in Perris (Angel, 448; Andrew J. Marsh, 693 n. 287; San Diego Union: “San Diego Academy,” 16 Jan 72, 3; “Personal,” 5 Aug 73, 3; “Township Officers,” 22 Nov 92, 3; Oliver biographical information courtesy of H. LeRoy Oliver). Oliver and Tillou figure under their real names in Clemens’s 12 February 1866 letter to the Territorial Enterprise, and in Roughing It as Oliphant and Ballou. In The Innocents Abroad, Clemens described Oliver as the “mildest-mannered man that ever was” (chapter 27). For Oliver’s 1910 recollections of the Humboldt journey, see DeLaney, 1–3.
Or kinnikinnick, a smoking mixture. Clemens described the “miraculous conglomerate they call ‘Killickinick’” in his “Answers to Correspondents,” originally published in the Californian on 17 June 1865:
It is composed of equal parts of tobacco stems, chopped straw, “old soldiers,” fine shavings, oak leaves, dog-fennel, corn-shucks, sun-flower petals, outside leaves of the cabbage plant, and any refuse of any description whatever that costs nothing and will burn. After the ingredients are thoroughly mixed together, they are run through a chopping-machine. The mass is then sprinkled with fragrant Scotch snuff, packed into various seductive shapes, labelled “Genuine Killickinick, from the old original manufactory at Richmond,” and sold to consumers at a dollar a pound. (ET&S2 , 192)
Lowell Mason’s Carmina Sacra; or, Boston Collection of Church Music, originally published in 1841 or 1842. Like Isaac Watts’s Hymns, first published in 1707, Mason’s collection of church music was a work of enduring popularity, frequently reprinted.
Clemens later claimed the party was accompanied by three dogs: Tillou’s “small pup ‘the Colonel,’ and our hound pup named ‘Tom Nye,’ and a beautiful pointer stolen from John H. Kinkead” (letter of 12 Feb 66 to the Territorial Enterprise). Kinkead was a Carson City merchant and the territorial treasurer (Kelly 1862, 10, 83).
Ragtown was on the Carson River at the junction of the old pioneer Reese River and Humboldt roads—a place “where horses can be shod ‘when the black‐smith is not in jail’” (“The Humboldt Mining District of Nevada Territory,” San Francisco Alta California, 23 June 62, 1). From Ragtown the route to Unionville passed through miles of heavy sand, alkali flats, and the Humboldt slough area, all of it difficult for a heavily laden wagon to traverse and, according to one traveler, “the only place I ever saw that seemed fit to commit murder or suicide in” (“Letter from Nevada Territory,” San Francisco Alta California, 18 June 63, 1).
Unionville had been laid out in July 1861 along the stream that descended Buena Vista Cañon, a broad and beautiful east-west cut through the Humboldt Mountains. At the time of this letter the town had recently been designated the county seat of newly organized Humboldt County (Angel, 446, 458–59). In chapter 28 of Roughing It Clemens claimed that when he arrived in December 1861 Unionville “consisted of eleven cabins and a liberty-pole.” Actually, the population of the three settlements in Humboldt County (Unionville, Humboldt City, and Star City) was reported to be as high as eight hundred by the beginning of 1862 (Kelly 1862, 237). A Unionville resident of the period described it as a lively place: “The numerous adobe, stone, brush and canvas habitations that line the broad and level streets impart to it a varied architectural beauty and picturesque appearance; and the county officials, speculators in ‘feet,’ limbs of the law, and Pah-Utahs that have congregated here, reflect a business-like and heterogeneous air around the town” (Wyoming 1862, 4).
These six leads were near Unionville and had been located by September 1861. The National and the Alba Nueva were two of the more famous mines of the Buena Vista district of Humboldt County, the latter the first ledge opened there. Each of them was partly owned by Captain Hugo Pfersdorff (see note 13). They were on the same hill, had well-developed shafts by September 1861, and were praised in the press for their gold-bearing quartz. On 28 January 1862 Clemens purchased ten feet in the Alba Nueva (“The Humboldt Region,” San Francisco Alta California, 17 Sept 61, 1; Wyoming 1862, 4; Kelly 1862, 237; deeds in CU-MARK).
John C. Fall’s Pioneer Mill, near Unionville, did not begin operating until November 1862. It was the first mill in the Buena Vista district (“Letter from Nevada Territory,” San Francisco Alta California, 15 Nov 62, 1; Nomad, 1).
The Star mining district was about eleven miles north of Unionville on the eastern slope of the Humboldt Mountains. Clemens visited Star City, the main settlement of the district, in December 1861 while he was in the Humboldt area. (For an incident of that visit see Roughing It, chapter 57.) Orville B. O’Bannon, originally from Kentucky, had been a lawyer in Keokuk, Iowa, before relocating in Humboldt County; in his 12 February 1866 letter to the Territorial Enterprise Clemens described O’Bannon as “miner, lawyer, and late local editor of the Humboldt Register.” By December 1861 O’Bannon had removed to the Santa Clara district, directly north of the Star district, where he helped systematize the mining laws and records (OC 1856, 89, and advertisements, 37; “Copy of the Proceedings of a Miners’ Meeting,” Red Bluff [Calif.] Beacon, 19 Dec 61, 2). De Witt Harroun and J. A. Byers evidently were Missouri acquaintances of Orion’s. Documents among the Clemens brothers’ mining deeds (CU-MARK) reveal that Harroun and Byers were partners in opening up six ledges in the Santa Clara district. By August 1864 Byers was established as secretary in the New York City office of the Mount Blanc Gold and Silver Consolidated Mining Company, in which Orion had invested and for which he served as both president and trustee (OC to Byers, 26 Aug 64, CU-MARK).
Clemens made the arduous return trip from Unionville to Carson City with Captain Hugo Pfersdorff and Colonel John B. Onstine. In May 1861 Pfersdorff had been co-discoverer of the mineral deposits near the future site of Unionville. Subsequently he helped to lay out the town and to organize the Buena Vista mining district, and he was elected the district’s first recorder, twice serving two-year terms (Angel, 458–59; Pioneer 1863, 84). Onstine, from Ohio, had practiced law for ten years in the Midwest before setting up his law firm in Carson City in August 1861 and, a few months later, in Unionville (“Law Firm,” Carson City Silver Age, 10 Aug 61, 2). Clemens gave a brief account of the return trip to Carson City in his 12 February 1866 Territorial Enterprise letter. In a longer version of the story (chapter 30 of Roughing It) he identified his companions as “Mr. Ballou and a gentleman named Ollendorff.” There is no other known evidence, however, that Ballou’s prototype, Cornbury S. Tillou, actually was along.
The “Attorney General” here may be the horse Bunker, rather than Benjamin B. Bunker. Although the latter could have been in Virginia City in late January in time to join Clemens, Pfersdorff, and Onstine for the last leg of their Humboldt–Carson City trip, no evidence has been found to confirm this.
The name printed as ‘Fillon’ in the Gate City has been emended in five places to the correct form ‘Tillou’. Although in this letter Clemens referred to Clagett and Oliver by first names only, he did not conceal their identities, and it seems unlikely that he meant to conceal Tillou’s identity either. More probably the Gate City compositor simply misread Clemens’s handwriting, in which ‘T’ and ‘F’ are easily mistaken for one another.
PH, “Model Letter from Nevada,” Keokuk Gate City, 6 Mar 62, 4. Newsprint of the Gate City is in the Iowa State Historical Department, Division of the State Historical Society, Iowa City (IaHi), and the Historical Library, The State Historical Society of Iowa, Des Moines. We have not been able to use the original newspaper as copy-text.
L1 , 146–152; Paine, 419–20, and MTB , 1:183–84, paraphrase and excerpts; Lorch 1938, 345–49; Rogers 1961, 29–34.
Paine cites the Keokuk Gate City as his source for the excerpts published in MTB ; he evidently did not see the MS, which is not known to survive.
More information on provenance may be found in Description of Provenanceclick to open link.